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Bohart Guest House
AgSolutions
Boiler, Equipped with the Kagi Burner
200k btu model, installed Feb 2006 First of all, the orignal Tarm wood-fired boiler needed far too much attention and was removed after a year. There is a lot of debate in the eastern US about emissions from wood-fired boilers and I agree they are smoky. Once they are up to optimal burn temperature there is no visible smoke coming from the stack, but getting them up to temperature proved to be very tricky and smoky. They are supposed to turn off and on automatically and cleanly, but as the smothered fire is fed air it spews smoke until the flame catches then continues to smoke for another 2-5 minutes until it comes up to temperature. I saw it create an entire bank of fog over my corner of town, no exaggeration.
My review of the AgSolutions Boiler equipped with the
Kagi Burner: I will say that the burner manufacturer, Kagi Waste Oil Boilers in Spokane, is quick with advice and service, and is fully revealing of the challenges presented by burning vegoil in their burner. They have a burner occasionally in use on vegoil in their heated shop and it works great. See below for what is needed to run this burner on straight vegetable oil. If you go into this KNOWING that you need to make some modifications to the burner then you'll be far better off. For me, the hard thing to swallow was being promised it was ready to run on vegoil, then finding out in the first cold snap (when you are needing a lot of heat) that it needs modifications. I burned a lot of natural gas in my backup boiler while I was working to modify the burner. Had I known what was required to use vegoil, I would have done it from the beginning and saved a lot of maintenance and headaches. The main problem areas are:
The burner's fuel lines and fuel pump are not heated, which is a
task not easily accomplished for an amateur like me due to the odd shape of the fuel pump and the tight
space surrounding it. The burner manufacturer in Spokane has some
prototype fuel pump
heaters (custom cup-shaped aluminum blocks with water channels that hug the
pump and fuel regulator) and they will sell them. I tried heat tape but the type I used did
not solve the problem (most
heat tape is self-regulating and stops heating when in contact with warmth).
So the addition of hot water heat is the only way to keep the fuel flowing, as
the pump must be 130-140F to prevent coagulation of animal fats and hydrogenated
oils which are almost always present in used cooking oil. The copper fuel
line from the pump to the fuel regulator must also be heated.
After 5 years of operation, the burn chamber is coated with hard carbon build up deposits so thick that it takes a hammer and chisel to carefully remove, and that's the easy part. The heat exchange tubes are 2" in inside diameter and about 2 feet long, and I finally devised a way to clean them with a hole saw and home made bit extension. Of course, the efficiency of the boiler is compromised by having the buildup insulate the water from the hot gasses. There is a stiff 2" brush sold at plumbing supply houses, and that works to remove dusty buildup, but no brush is going to take this scale deposit off.
Only general recommendations for air compressors were given, and
no information about how to avoid or mitigate water condensation problems.
The burner uses compressed air to pull fuel from the nozzle to create the
flame, and the air compressor is not sold with the unit; it must be purchased
separately. I started out with what I had, a Costco/Coleman compressor
which was noisy and used a lot of electricity. After much review I
purchased a small Makita MAC700 and added a second air tank to increase cycle time.
It is very quiet and efficient but just had to be replaced in Jan 2011.
The boiler is shipped with the sheet metal off, and some yellow
insulation is supplied to be installed between the barrel and the sheet metal,
but they don't give you nearly enough. Information:
There are quite a few handy tools you will need to work on this
baby, but they aren't listed in the manuals. There is no maintenance schedule, so you'll figure
out why the boiler is not working after it goes down, and you may or may not
replace the correct items first. Usually it is the O-rings, $.20 items
that are also not supplied or listed by size so you have to order them from Kagi
or take the nozzle to
the hardware store and try to determine what size it was before it wore out.
There is also a $1 fuel pump cup gasket that they don't include spares of, and
you have to get that from Kagi or your service rep. I wore mine out from
removing the fuel cup too many times to clean out the thickened oils, and was
instructed by AgSolutions to use silicon to make a gasket, then spent the next month cleaning
dried silicon goobers out of the flame cone and small oil channels in the heat
block. To do that I found out you need an automotive O2 sensor removal socket
and an impact driver, then I got oil inside the electronics box which is
unavoidable and the oil got up into the circuit board and fried that up so the
boiler sat cold for 4 days during a below zero weather cycle & the natural gas
boiler had to take over and waste a bunch of fossil fuel. I may have overcome most of the challenges but beware that you should ask for the cold climate retrofit. All attempts on my part of offering to help AgSolutions create such a kit and a special section to the owners manual have gone unanswered, while Kagi is much more responsive. So while I believe in the basic quality of the equipment it should be known that it is up to you and the service representative to make it work. It's certainly not rocket science but almost all of this hassle is avoidable and it's frustrating that the company which collected your $6000 doesn't care to avoid the hassle. It certainly costs them to deal with you when you've got them on the phone everyday so go figure. Some people like to stay behind the wave and then wonder why life is hard. I would highly recommend getting your service directly from Kagi, which is great.
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